On jacket construction, quality materials, fit and the art of modern tailoring.
In terms of construction, the jacket is one of the most complex pieces in a woman’s wardrobe. Its character is defined not only by design, but also by the precision of the pattern, the properties of the fabric, the balance of proportions and the quality of the craftsmanship.
For L’ESKIZZO, a Ukrainian brand of structured womenswear founded in 2015, the jacket became the starting point of its own design language.
We have gathered answers to questions about women’s tailoring, jacket quality and the particularities of structured clothing.
What is structured womenswear?
Structured clothing is clothing in which the shape of the silhouette is created through considered construction, cut and the properties of the material.
A strong shoulder line, a defined waist, geometric proportions and a precise fit form the architecture of the garment.
Unlike clothing that mostly follows the natural lines of the body, structured clothing can create a new silhouette, emphasising or reinterpreting proportions.
How is a structured jacket different from an ordinary one?
The main difference lies in how it works with form.
A structured jacket has a carefully considered architecture: the construction of the shoulders, the balance of volumes, the waistline and the proportions of length.
Its silhouette can remain expressive even when the jacket is worn open.
At the same time, structure does not necessarily mean rigidity. Modern tailoring makes it possible to combine a clear form with fluid fabric and freedom of movement.
What defines the quality of a women’s jacket?
The quality of a jacket comes from a combination of details, some of which are not noticeable at first glance.
Above all, these are:
— Construction and pattern — precise proportions and balance between the front and back of the garment.
— Fit — the way the jacket sits naturally on the shoulders, the correct sleeve line and comfort in movement.
— Materials — fabric that suits the construction and purpose of the garment.
— Inner finishing — the quality of the lining, seams, reinforcing elements and joins.
— Details — symmetrical lapels, precise pockets, quality buttonholes and buttons.
Premium quality is defined not only by the cost of the fabric or the complexity of the design, but above all by how well all these elements work together.
Why is the fit of a jacket so important?
Even the most expensive fabric cannot make up for imperfect construction.
The right fit determines how the jacket interacts with the body: whether it holds its shape in motion, avoids unnecessary tension and distributes volume correctly.
In women’s tailoring, the balance between the shoulders, bust, waist and hips is especially important.
That is why developing a jacket requires careful work with proportions and repeated refinement of the construction.
Why does fabric matter so much in making a jacket?
Fabric defines not only how a garment looks, but also what its construction can achieve.
Dense materials can support clean geometric lines. Fluid fabrics allow softer silhouettes, while textured surfaces add depth to the form.
At L’ESKIZZO, choosing the material is part of the design process. The brand works with fabrics from European makers, including Italian textile companies, selecting materials to suit the character of each garment. The fabrics we use →
What is Tender Tailoring?
Tender Tailoring is a design approach that combines the expressiveness of structured cut with softness, fluidity and femininity.
In the L’ESKIZZO philosophy, it is a balance between opposites: masculine strength and feminine delicacy, architectural form and natural movement.
Structure does not restrict a woman — it helps her express her own character.
This balance lies at the heart of the brand’s design language.
Can a structured jacket be comfortable?
Yes. Structure and comfort do not contradict each other.
A jacket’s comfort depends on the right balance of construction, ease of fit, the properties of the fabric and the way it sits on the body.
A well-constructed jacket can have an expressive form without restricting natural movement.
For L’ESKIZZO, this is one of the key principles: clothing should not only shape the silhouette but also interact naturally with the body.
How does premium tailoring differ from mass production?
The difference is not always defined by the scale of production or the price of the garment.
In premium tailoring, particular attention is paid to precise construction, the choice of materials, sewing technique and quality of finishing.
Pattern development, fittings, checking proportions and refining details all play an important role.
These processes make it possible to create clothing in which aesthetics and function exist in balance.
Why did the jacket become the core of L’ESKIZZO’s DNA?
Since its founding in Kyiv in 2015, L’ESKIZZO has focused on the women’s jacket as a key element of the wardrobe.
For the brand, the jacket became more than a garment — a way to explore form, proportion and the character of the modern woman.
Over time, this specialisation has grown into a broader design language for a structured wardrobe that today includes jackets, suits, dresses and other pieces.
Despite the growth of the range, the craft of making jackets remains an essential part of L’ESKIZZO’s identity. Read also: «The Jacket as Sculpture».
Craftsmanship that shapes character
At L’ESKIZZO, we believe that true quality shows in details that are not always visible, but always felt.
In the way a jacket holds its shape. In the way fabric moves with the body. In the way precise construction creates a sense of ease.
This is our language of craftsmanship — structure in motion, elegance in balance.
Learn more about how L’ESKIZZO jackets are made in «The Jacket as Sculpture» and explore the brand’s jacket collection.